There is about 1000 km of lakes, rivers and canals criss-crossing Kerala providing irrigation, transportation and communication. These stretches of water, just inland from the Arabian Sea, are the backwaters.
The “kettuvallam” (rice barge) was designed to carry rice, coconuts and spices. They were built of wooden planks sewn together with coconut fibre. A roof of woven palm fronds soaked in sardine oil for waterproofing protected the cargo from the weather. There are 1000-plus houseboats, everyone different, plying the backwaters. We were pleased to find our Spice Coast Cruises houseboat was locally constructed using these traditional designs, materials and techniques. The handmade coir matting added to a wonderful atmosphere as soon as we boarded. Our experienced professional Captain, Chef and Crew were all from local villages and treated us like royalty. Every day, Chef David presented us with different delicious Keralan foods, fresh fruit juices and snacks all prepared in a tiny kitchen at the back of the boat.
Most trips are for only one, or sometimes two, nights but we are glad we chose five nights which took us further south into smaller channels and where the bigger boats don’t go. After the first day we didn’t see another houseboat until almost back at Alleppey. In our own private boat chugging slowly along for 6 days watching life happening along the water then stopping for the night, tying up to a coconut tree in quiet secluded spots on the river – this is our kind of cruising!
Our “kettuvallam” – a rice barge converted to a luxury houseboat Length: 20.45m, Width: 4.05m, Depth: 1.65m, Tonnage: 58 TonnesOur crew – Captain Rudha, Chef David & Crewman SanalThe bedroom has a mosquito net and is air conditioned at nightLounge/dining space open to the breezesHouseboats come in all shapes ans sizes, some even have 8 bedroomsPassing the lighthouse in Vembanad Lake om the way outA small ferry crosses the LakeRepairing the woven palm roof on a kettuvallamCut grass to feed the cowsThe State Water Transport Ferry runs along the canalsSchool boatWashing clothes in the riverThere are churches right on the water every few kilometersA snake boat used in races has 96 paddlers Sunset on day one
Day 2: 48 km – 10 October 2019
Sunrise day twoHouseboats lined up ready to return to Alleppey but we kept going southAlong the canalMan diving for shellsWe are sailing on National Waterway 3River crossing the old wayLaden with beach sand for buildingOcean going fishing boats take shelter in the canalsOnce there were hundreds of Chinese fishing nets in this lagoon but only a few remain Our houseboat pulled in to the bankWe took a short walk to this place of “Ammaor Mother” and we surprised to see dozens of foreigners staying herePunting is still the main method of moving between places in the backwaters Everyone is happy, smiling and waving to usThe backwaters really are beautiful Sunset day two
Day 3: 56 km – 11 October 2019
Dawn on day threeSome of the birds we sawIt’s the only way to cross the river when there is no bridgeKattil Mekkathil Temple has been a place of Hindu pilgrimage for centuries People walk around the tree seven times, hang small bells and make a wishPreparing sweet rice at the TempleFisherman brining in his catch to …… the fish market on an Arabian Sea beachThis Egret hitched a ride with us (Chinese fishing nets in the background)Saint Joseph Catholic Church uses the Latin RitesEgret sits of the canoe waiting for his fishLunch on a banana leaf prepared by Chef DavidFishermanThen it started to rainWhen it rains it buckets downWe had a bottle of Indian Sula Shiraz Cabernet …… whilst watching the sunset on day three
Day 4: 58 km – 12 October 2019
Sunrise day fourClothes hung up to dry between two coconut palmsBeautiful reflections Coconut fibre waiting for the boatFish farmFloating weed A perfect reflectionHouse with an outdoor toilet Fisherman in the waterWoman washing up while boys are playing in the riverPunting a bike across Sanal buys fresh fish …… which David turns into fish curry in banana leaf for lunchOur Spice Coast Cruises sister houseboat with its “wings” openSunset day four
Day 5: 51 km – 13 October 2019
Dawn day fiveIn the early morning a fisherman sets his net then beats the water to drive the fish inRice growing along the canalThis little store on a motorbike sells pretty much everything We rode bikes (5 km each way) to the “Snake Temple” where there are over 3000 stone snakes in the forest Free range ducks ..… make a great duck curryMan washing a buffalo Bathing in the river is the normRice is still brought along the river in a rice bargeWe pulled in at the Basilica of St. Mary, established in 427 AD, one of the oldest Christian churches in IndiaAfter the rainSunset day fiveA full moon for our last night, how good is that!
Day 6: 11 km – 14 October 2019
Dawn on day sixOur last breakfast – these are then filled with a lightly spiced vegetable mixA sailing canoe come to collect shellsHeading back across Vembanad Lake
